Emerson and Green Stone Town Zanzibar
236 Hurumzi Street, PO Box 3417, Stonetown
Zanzibar, Tanzania

If you’re an incurable romantic and fancy being swept up in the drama and mysticism of an Arabian Nights fantasy, Emerson and Green is the place. This beautifully restored guesthouse in the heart of Stone Town was once the home of the richest men in the Swahili Empire. It’s now a place to dream of a long-gone era and bask in the opulence it inspired. Imagine waking to the fragrance of jasmine in a bedroom featuring Zanzibari antiques, hand-painted glass lamps and windows, oriental rugs, chandeliers and billowing mosquito nets draped over four-poster beds. Waft over to your balcony to see the early morning sun light up the rooftops of Stone Town as the muezzin calls from the mosque’s minaret. Picture yourself bathing outdoors in an enormous, sunken stone bath shielded from the world by a lattice-enclosed veranda. Then step out into the hustle and bustle of Stone Town and spend the day exploring the maze of alleyways in this ancient town with its open-air markets, old palaces and intricately carved doorways. Make sure you return to Emerson and Green’s before sunset to climb the stairs to the roof (it’s the second-highest building in Stone Town) where you’ll find the Tower Top Restaurant. Toss off your shoes at the door and sit Arabian-style on giant pillows laid upon the Persian-carpeted floor. Watch the sun dribble gold into the Indian Ocean as robed waiters bring a five-course meal to your knee-high table. With the rooftops, mosque minarets, temple towers and church spires below, you really do feel on top of the world!

Accommodation

There are 10 rooms in this three-storey building accessed via a steep stairwell (no lifts here in Zanzibar). Each one differs in size, layout and special features. The top rooms offer the best views, but have ceiling fans only. All the downstairs rooms have air conditioning. Certain rooms (especially Ball Room, East Room and Crystal) are more spacious than others (such as Kipembe). South Room and North Room boast open-air stone baths with lattice-enclosed verandas. Special touches include fresh flowers, jasmine flowers on your pillow at bedtime and bottled water. All rooms are en-suite, but don’t expect the luxuries of television, telephone or mini-bar. Some rooms don’t even have wardrobes. The Arabic stone baths are part of the charm of the place. However, the plumbing can be problematic and the water pressure on the weak side. Bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper as the centre of town can be noisy at night. To many people this is part and parcel of the thrill of Stone Town. You’ll notice a mixture of Persian, Indian and Arab elements. The very spacious rooms are typical of Arab building, while the woodwork and windows shows Persian and Indian influences. The lattice windows and stained glass was most probably made in India and shipped over. The enormous teak wood beams were imported from Burma.

North Room: Superb bedroom situated on the top floor with a veranda offering splendid views over Stone Town towards the Indian Ocean. The room is decorated with beautiful latticework in African hardwood, a large Zanzibari four-poster bed and antique furniture. The best part is the gorgeous stone bathtub with a shower set out under the sky on the veranda. Lattice screens and tropical plants shield you from the rest of the world. Very romantic, especially with candles on a good starlit night. South Room: This air-conditioned bedroom is accessed via a wooden bridge from the top floor veranda. There is an ornate lattice enclosed veranda which offers double-aspect views over Stone Town and a slight view of the restaurant. The semi-open stone bath and shower are particularly romantic on hot nights, when you can bathe under the stars. East Room: This is a colourful room with wrap-around veranda, especially good for early risers. Facing east, you get most of the early morning sun. It's decorated with cerise and white fabrics, Persian carpets and dark wood antiques. Beautiful hardwood latticework separates the veranda which wraps around the room on two sides. From your spacious sitting area you can enjoy the beautiful view and the cooling breezes. West Room: Located on the top floor, this attractive room has an intimate atmosphere and double-aspect views. Hardwood latticework encloses the room on two sides and the veranda presents a spectacular view of the sun setting over the Sultan's ceremonial palace and into the Indian Ocean. It is beautifully decorated with a Zanzibari painted headboard over the four-poster bed and dark wood antiques. The kidney shaped en-suite stone bath adds to the atmosphere. Ballroom: This sumptuous room is set behind enormous carved doors with thick brass spikes. It offers spacious air-conditioned comfort with an array of windows along one side and cool tile floors. Many of the windows have stained glass. There is a large en-suite sunken stone bath. Ballroom is ideal for families with children as there is plenty of space for two beds. Gallery: Located on the second floor and decorated in grand Zanzibari style, the Gallery is named for the many hand painted windowpanes in the bathroom. The panes diffuse the sun and show cheerful images of peacocks, clove trees and other local flora and fauna. Air-conditioning is a relief on a humid day. Lavender Room: This air-conditioned room is decorated in shades of purple. It features an elegant antique brass bed and its own large stone bathe en suite. Crystal Room: This elegant room features ornate chandeliers, large mirrors and a stone bath in the bedroom. There are two antique beds for families. There is a balcony from which you can watch life going by on the Stone Town streets. Crystal also has air conditioning. Zenana Suite: This air-conditioned room is situated below Gallery and has high windows facing east and a balcony looking over the streets below. The bathroom has a large stone tub. It’s a good choice for families as the lounge can be turned into an extra bedroom if necessary. Kipembe Room: Meaning corner in Swahili, Kipembe is one of the smallest rooms at Emersons. Its lack of grandness also means a reduction of price. There is a bedroom decorated in dark wood antiques, an anteroom and a bathroom with a shower. Air-conditioning adds comfort.

Facilities and Services

Dinner at the Tower Top Restaurant (read the introduction) is extremely popular, so pre-booking is essential. Sundowner cocktails are served from 17h30. There is one seating for dinner at 19h00. The set menu for the day is displayed at reception. As long as advance notice is given, vegetarian and non-seafood eaters can be catered for. A small buffet breakfast is served in this restaurant in the mornings A new air-conditioned restaurant, Kidude, has opened on the ground floor. It serves lunch, dinner, snacks and cocktails. It’s exquisitely decorated in lavish style and makes you really appreciate being in exotic Zanzibar. It’s a must – even if just for a glass of wine.